A specialized computer crafted for playing high-end video games is known as a gaming PC. Gaming PCs are distinguished from computers by their use of video cards and high-core-count operating system with raw performance. Other strenuous tasks, such as video editing, are also performed on gaming PCs. Many gamers and computer aficionados turbo-boost their CPU(s) and GPU(s) to gain additional effectiveness. The additional power draw required to overclock either processing unit frequently necessitates supplemental cooling via enhanced air or water cooling.

They have up to 32GB of RAM and the fastest CPU and GPU chips. Such computers frequently use intricate cooling structures, especially if the CPU is overclocked, and generally use a tower case to accommodate multiple drives and state-of-the-art graphics cards costing five times as much as an entire non-gaming PC.

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Choosing between a pre-built or custom PC

When you’ve decided to purchase a new gaming PC, the very first stage is to evaluate whether you want a desktop/laptop. Presuming you’ve decided on a desktop pc, the next task is to locate the best one for you. It won’t be much longer until you’re forced to choose between a pre-built PC and a custom PC. While system diversification is one of the most significant benefits of PC gaming, there are many options available that it can be difficult to actually start.

Although there is a number of approaches accessible, you typically have three choices available:

  1. Purchasing a pre-built computer: Pre-built gaming PCs are fully functional systems assembled by trusted companies using well-balanced and dependable hardware setups. They are mass-produced by some of the most respected brands in the PC industry. These are commonly found at various retail locations and are intended to be fully prepared. 
  2. Getting it built by someone else: One other alternative is to have your project done by a custom PC builder. You choose the features and functions you want, and then depend on a group of professional specialists to build and ship a PC to you.
  3. Constructing it on your own: Finally, you can buy the separate components and arrange them yourself. 

However the possible alternatives on this range aren’t properly delineated, and there is some overlap among them, they’re all important to consider. Let’s look at each category in more detail.

  • Pre-built: 

Pre-built structures are appealing to someone who is less worried with the subtleties of each element in their design, like the manufacturing company and technical specifications such as RAM speed. They are excellent for anyone who values easiness over the flexibility to adapt each component of their construction.

  • Custom-built:

Consider purchasing a custom-built device from a PC building company if you want personalization and the ability to rapidly enhance your equipment in the future but don’t essentially want to construct your own PC. This approach provides a few of the benefits of establishing your own PC, such as the ability to select the components you want. The distinction is that the PC will be assembled for you by an experienced builder.

  • Self-built:

Those who want complete absolute control of their design, constructing your own PC is the    best option. It provides a comprehensive customizability range. This ensures that you will always have the specific hardware you require. You’ll also know how to update and customize your PC because you built it.

How to build a gaming PC?

The only absolutely positive strategy to guarantee that your system is capable of satiating all of your individual preferences is to create a gaming PC from the ground up. You realize you’ll be capable of playing the games you want at the frame rates you want when you recognize all that goes into your PC, from the power supply on up.

Furthermore, a home-built PC allows for future enhancements as technology evolves, your gaming preferences and needs change, or your budget permits. Even if establishing a PC may appear daunting, you may discover that it is fairly simple, particularly when cracked project into simple stages. 

So now let’s dive into the intricate yet exciting task of building a gaming PC:

  • Tools required

The very first step in preparing is to assemble all of the tools you’ll need to finish the project. Gearing up the components listed below beforehand will go a long road ahead toward ensuring a smooth work flow. Some important tools are enlisted below:

  1. Workspace: To work on, you’ll need a huge surface area, such as a counter top. Make doubly sure you’re standing on an uncarpeted surface to avoid an electrical shock (that can potentially harm sensitive components).
  2. Screwdrivers: For almost everything, you’ll need a Phillips #2 screwdriver. You’ll also need a Phillips #0 screwdriver if you’re installing an M.2 device.
  3. Use of several sources of light: Create your structure in a well-lit region with different lighting sources. When you lean over the chassis, you don’t want to be concerned about obstructing your only source of light. An adjustable light will assist you in illuminating the crevices of your case.
  4. Wristband with anti-static properties: It’s not mandatory, but it helps to ensure that electrostatic discharge doesn’t damage sensitive components. However this is a rare event, it’s always best to be prepared, and anti-static straps are inexpensive.
  5. Zip ties to secure items together: Though these aren’t required, combining your cables together will improve the appearance of the inside of your PC. If you don’t want to purchase zip ties, twist ties will suffice.
  6. A pair of scissors: Finally, scissors will be required to cut zip ties and untangle materials.
  • Cases for Gaming Computers

You must have a case or, at the very least, a case size in mind before you start picking out elements. The most important consideration when selecting a case is where you intend to place the PC. The final position of your PC will ascertain how huge you can go, as well as whether or not different kinds of case functionalities are worthwhile to spend extra money on. If your device will be concealed under your work station, for instance, you presumably would not want to pay for a curved glass sidebar. Full-tower, mid-tower, and mini-tower cases are the most common sizes. These are major types, but they are determined by the size of the motherboard.

Most case models come at varying prices, so discovering a case to fit your spending plan ought to be simple. Premium and convenience features such as sound deadening, higher-quality design equipment, detachable drive enclosures, and more appealing cable management may be found in more expensive versions, but these factors generally have no discernible influence on productivity. There are primarily three cases:

  1. Full tower: These cases are intended to house both Extended-ATX and standard full-size ATX motherboards. They are typically 22-24 inches in height, 18-20 inches in length, and 8 inches or more wide. If you need to use an Extended-ATX chipset or install a large cooler or extra space, you’ll most probably have to get a full-tower case. Even though full-tower cases can accommodate Mini-ITX motherboards, there is no strong benefit of constructing a setup in this manner.
  2. Mid tower: Mid-tower cases are intended to house regular full ATX circuit boards. The most prevalent case size is mid-tower. The sizes of these cases vary greatly, but they are typically 18-20 inches in height, 17-20 inches in length, and 6-8 inches in width. These cases are typically capable of housing a gaming setup consisting of a couple of graphics cards, numerous hard drives, and a basic cooling unit.
  3. Mini tower: Mini-tower cases, also known as small form factor (SFF) builds, are tiny and crafted to house a variety of fairly small motherboards, such as mini-ITX boards. Whereas SFF builds have made great progress in the last several centuries, mini-towers, particularly that use mini-ITX motherboards, necessitate meticulous planning of elements and temperature control, limiting the potential for upgrades once the setup is completed.

As a result, we don’t recommend SFF builds for new developers, but they can be a worthwhile experience if you already have a few projects completed. When you’ve decided how big you want to go, search for a case that’s near to that magnitude. If you can’t really tell on a size, it’s best to prevaricate on the larger side. You’ll possibly discover that a larger case is easier to work with and that upgrading your PC will go more smoothly in the long term. 

  • Components of a Gaming PC

It’s now time to assemble the parts. You can conduct in-depth exploration on every individual component and design a personalized build from ground – up, or you can discover a pre-made construct digitally and modify it to fit your particular needs and requirements. We strongly advise you to create a strategy before you begin selecting elements. Keep in mind that you can also consider upgrading components afterwards. 

The following are some of the components required to build a gaming PC:

  1. Central Processing Unit (CPU): The Central Processing Unit (CPU) is also referred to as the processor. It the brain of your computer. When a computer program runs, this is when the magic happens. It transmits the CPU a sequence of instructions (which are more like tasks). The CPU executes each “instruction” and send impulses to the other parts to notify those whenever a task is due.
  2. Core count:  It indicates number of processors the CPU has, or how many tasks the CPU can undertake at the same time.
  3. Clock speed: It indicates how fast the CPU completes every work.
  4. Motherboard: The motherboard acts as the major circuit board and every other part id linked to it. The CPU is directly mounted to the motherboard. It is essential that your CPU and motherboard are compatible.
  5. Random Access memory: RAM is the short-term memory of your computer. It’s quicker and more efficient to obtain as compared to your PC’s long-term memory, but it is transitory.
  6. Graphics processing unit: These are classified into two main categories, discrete and integrated. Integrated GPUs are built in alongside the CPU. Discrete graphics cards are massive, high-performance parts. They connect to the motherboard through PCIe* and have their own assets.
  7. Hard disk drives: HDDs use a rotating platter to hold information. These discs store data using magnetic material, which is then recovered using a mechanical arm.
  8. Solid state drives: SSDs store data using NAND-based flash memory, which is comparable to, but fast and reliable than, the flash memory used in a USB flash drive.
  9. Power Supply Unit: Choosing a power supply unit (PSU) is a vital task in any project. The power source must be well-made and potent to manage all existing and anticipated parts, and a guarantee is recommended.
  10. Cooling systems: Air and liquid cooling are two primary methods for cooling your computer. To avoid overheating, air cooling employs fans to direct hot air through your device and away from materials. To absorb heat from materials and transfer it to a less constrained space, liquid cooling employs a liquid coolant.
  11. Peripherals: Personal preference prevails when it comes to monitors, keyboards, mice, headphones, and other external devices. You don’t have to buy these items alongside the parts, but you’ll need a screen, a keypad, and a mouse to establish your system once it’s built. 
  12. Operating system:  Finally, once all of the other elements have been compiled in the situation, you’ll need to make preparations to install an operating system. It aids in the management of correspondence among computer equipment and programs. 

Now, we’ll move towards the underlying procedure of building a gaming PC. You must ensure the availability of all the above mentioned equipment and material before jumping in the task.

  • Installation of the CPU

Place the motherboard on your worktop after removing it from its antistatic wrapping. Locate the CPU connector, which should be protected by a cap of plastic. Take note of the spot of the slight pointer in one edge of the plastic lid, or more frequently, on the socket itself. A thin metallic lever is located next to the CPU socket. To open the socket tray, apply pressure on the lever and simply pull it to the side.

Remove the CPU from its wrapping by opening it up. Handle the CPU with great caution — both of the CPU and socket are exceedingly prone to various losses. Grasp the CPU by the edges — don’t ever reach for the pins on the underside of the processor because your fingertips can introduce dirt particles or oil, and avoid touching the surface of the chip as well. An arrow can be found in one of the CPU’s corners. Queue up this arrow with the arrow on the connector and softly slide the CPU into place. After delicately seating the CPU, decrease the retention handle and force it back into position. Dropping the lever may necessitate some effort, but seating the CPU does not!

  • Installation of  M.2 SSDs

Now is a perfect opportunity to configure an M.2 SSD. Discover your motherboard’s M.2 slot initially. It’s a tiny horizontal slot with a small screw beside it. Consult the user guide that came with your motherboard if you can’t find it, if you find numerous M.2 slots, or if you plan on implementing more than one M.2 SSD.

Using a Phillips #0 screwdriver, detach the tiny bolt. Do not let it slip away. Gently insert the M.2 SSD into the vacant spot. When completely perched, it will protrude from the circuit board at a 35-degree angle. To secure the SSD, push it down and replace the tiny screw.

  • CPU cooling installation

CPU coolers come in a variety of styles. We suggest consulting the handbook that did come with your CPU cooling system for concise manufacturer’s directions. A mounting bracket is required for some coolers. A bracket may be pre-installed on the motherboard. If your cooling system does not require a bracket, you might have to eliminate it, or you might have to substitute it if your cooler works differently bracket. Perform this step prior to actually inserting the motherboard into the scenario.

Several coolers include pre-applied heat source to the conducting material, but others do not. You will have to apply thermal paste before seating the cooler, if it does not come with a pre-applied thermal paste. Try squeezing a small dot of thermal paste onto the center of the CPU to apply it. Then, position the cooler on top of the CPU — the force will help to evenly distribute the thermal paste.


  • Configuration of Random Access memory

Specify the amount of RAM slots on your circuit board. Simply snap the RAM into place if you intend to fill all available RAM slots. . If you aren’t trying to get all of the RAM slots, seek advice from the user guide to determine the proper setup and fill the RAM slots appropriately. 

  • Test operation outside the case:

After installation of the CPU and CPU cooler, you might also want to drive a simple assessment of your parts to ensure they all function. After, all of it is fitted in the chassis, this test becomes much more difficult to execute and troubleshoot. If you don’t fully understand how to configure the GPU, install it and connect everything else to the power supply. Check that the power supply is linked to the circuit board and GPU before plugging it in and turning it on.

Power buttons are found on certain higher-end motherboards, though not on most. If you’re not seeing a power button, look for the power switch pins, which are tiny pairs of prongs protruding from colorful growths. The pins of the power switch can be labelled. To switch on the motherboard, use a screwdriver to simultaneously tap both power switch pins. You will now be ready to discern if some of your elements are useless or just not working properly.

If the circuit board flashes or beeps at you, it’s most likely trying to communicate with you. Some motherboards include a post code demonstration that can assist you in determining the source of the issue. Consult your user manual to determine what it is going to convey you. If your motherboard does not have a post code display, attach a display to the GPU and check to see whether your structure “posts,” or starts working, and exhibits the logo of motherboard.

When you’ve completed the experiment, remove the power source and allow time for any LEDs on the circuit board to go black to make sure there’s really no leftover power in the structure. Then, prior to actually moving to the next step, remove the GPU and disconnect all power cables.

  • Mounting the power source

If you chose a quick test, unravel the PSU or disconnect it from the components and set its cables apart.

Examine your situation to determine where the power supply should go and how it should be centered. Preferably, you should position the power supply so that its fan heads out of the case. If your case has an underside vent, you can install the PSU inverted as long as the base vent receives adequate airflow when the PC is completed. If the case lacks vents, position the PSU so that the fan is pointing up and that it has adequate clearance.

Using the four screws that came with the PSU, secure the PSU to the case. Now would be the moment to route the connected wires through the case to their final destination, if you’re using a power supply that isn’t modular or semi-modular.

  • Setting up the motherboard

If your controller happened to come with a detached I/O shield, which is a metallic, rectangle panel with holes for the motherboard’s port facilities, break it into location in the rear of your case initially. I/O shields typically have jagged corners, so keep your fingers safe.

After you’ve installed the I/O shield, you can configure the motherboard. Check that all of your wires are twisted through to the proper spot before inserting the motherboard. Mount the very first screw, the center screw with a Phillips #2 screwdriver to secure the motherboard. Take care not to drag your motherboard across the standoffs that are attached to the chassis.

The count of screws required to fasten the motherboard will vary depending on the panel. However, a full-size ATX circuit board typically requires 9 screws. Fill in all of the accessible mounting holes. Attach the motherboard to the power supply. There are mainly two interconnections. An 8-pin CPU connector near the top of the board and a 24-pin connector just on corner. 

  • GPU Set-up

Locate your motherboard’s PCIe* x16 slot. This will be the lengthiest PCIe* hole and it may vary in color from the others. If your circuit board does have more than one PCIe* x16 slot, consult the user guide to determine whether one slot should be given preference. Ascertain which slot you’ll use based on where other elements are placed if any slot can be used. You would like to have your GPU to be able to breathe.

You might have to eliminate I/O covers depending on the circumstances. It will allow your GPU’s I/O (HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI, etc.) to be available from the outside of the frame.  Detach the GPU out of its occlusive wrapping and cautiously line it up with the back retention bracket and slot.

When the GPU is completely perched, use one or two screws to secure it to the case’s back. Connect your GPU to the power supply if it has auxiliary power connectors.

  • Maintaining storage

First and foremost, examine your specific instance. Whenever it comes to drive bays, each case is unique. Within your case, you ought to be sure to locate a stack of bays of various shapes and size.  Those may be equipped with small plastic switching devices, indicating that they are tool-free bays, or they may simply resemble metallic brackets.

Storage is typically available in two versions

  1. 2.5-inch (HDDs and SSDs) 
  2. 3.5-inch (HDDs).

The majority of 3.5-inch bays could indeed take 2.5-inch drives, but not the other way around. A few 3.5-inch bays can have containers that aren’t intended for 2.5-inch drives, but they can still accommodate 2.5-inch bays. Larger bays in your particular instance may also be present; these are for bigger drives, such as optical drives, and are typically found just next to the anterior of the case, close to the top.

Every tool-free bay will have its own plastic lever or toggle if you have them. You should be capable of pulling out the tray after you open or unlock the lever or switch. Insert your drive into the tray — a few 3.5-inch racks are developed to accommodate 2.5-inch trays. If they really are, you must secure the 2.5-inch drive to the 3.5-inch tray so it does not start moving.

Return the tray to its original position in the bay. This should fit perfectly. You’ll notice a metallic bracket with slats or holes if you don’t have tool-free bays. To install a drive in these “bays,” easily push it between the metal bracket and the side of your case and screw it in position. Get as many bolts as the chassis handbook advises, but most drives will be fine with just two screws if you don’t have enough.

After you’ve installed all of your drives, attach them to the circuit board with a SATA cable that might have appeared with either your drive or your chipset, and then connect it to the power source.

  • Operating system setup

Now is the time to prepare your operating system (OS) on a USB flash drive if you haven’t already. Switch on your PC and insert the USB drive containing your operating system, as well as a monitor, pointing device, and keypad. The very first display you perceive will instruct you to click a button to access the system configuration, also known as the BIOS. To start BIOS, press the key.

Consult your motherboard’s user manual if the screen flashes off too quickly for you to see the key. First, ensure that all of your elements are properly installed and recognized. Locate the BIOS page that displays the system information for your PC. Various chipsets have different BIOS configurations, but you should be successful in finding a display that exhibits this data and make sure that the system recognizes all you’ve tried to install up to this point.

After that, navigate through BIOS till you find the Boot page, which may be referred to as “Boot Order” or “Boot Priority.” Modify the boot sequence so that your USB drive is always first. The drive on which you want to configure your OS is second if you’re using an SSD as a boot drive.


Start your computer again. When your computer system from the USB, the OS installer will appear. To finish installing, follow the procedure.


Congratulations on completing your construction if you’ve produced it this far in our guidance. The job, however, does not finish yet. The greatest part about developing your own gaming PC is that it is never completely done.

As hardware advances, the potential for personalization of a custom PC is practically infinite, or even your own facility can be as updated as you wish based both on your budget and requirements. Keep these options in mind the next time you inspect the suggested specs for a new game you want to play. The PC you just constructed will form the basis for all of your future fun games, and fine-tuning your elements is all part of the enjoyment of possessing one. 

Consider integrating your gaming PC into a full-fledged battle station now that you know how to build a gaming PC. You can also understand how to create the most out of your build by employing sophisticated methods.


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